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| Administrator Joined: Nov 2006 From: Seattle, WA Posts: 186 I Drive: Audi A4 S My Project: 190E |
What's best speed out there for under 20k? Option A) Buy a used car and do some heavy upgrades? Option B) Buy a new(er) car and do moderate upgrades? | ||
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Moscow, Idaho Posts: 150 I Drive: 2006 Yamaha R6, 1991 nissan 180sx, 95 neon sport beater My Project: Pulled the sr20det for the second time and winter modding time |
For fun on dry pavement nissan 240sx, and the best snow car is a awd dsm.
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| Third Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Wilsonville, OR Posts: 71 I Drive: BMW E30 My Project: 03 BMW 530i |
Easily the easiest way to do that is to purchase an older sport coupe for $7k and throw $13k into the engine & suspension. ...If speed is all you're after.
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Methlehem Posts: 210 I Drive: You're mom and sister wild...at the same time My Project: Getting enough money for an M3 |
soooooooo many options for $20K. But, who has that kinda green in cash to spend? You should buy upgrades in cash, since they have no value after purchase. I know I'd think long and hard about it, but probably end up with a nice E36 M3 turbo'd, set-up (suspension/brakes), and PIMP.
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Spokane Posts: 128 I Drive: 96 240SX 90 300ZXTT My Project: 96 240SX with Full JIC FLT-A2 Susension, Sr20DET, 300ZX brake kit, etc |
Id do a TT Z muahhahahaha or a sick 240, wait, I have.....
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| Second Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Vantucky Posts: 47 I Drive: a 1991 Mazda Miata, with TEETH! |
OPT. A. Finda good used car that has a straight body, etc. then blow teh rest on upgrades. alot can be had for under 20K. It only costs like $3000 + base Miata to get into Mazda Miata Spec racing... | ||
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| Newbie Joined: Nov 2006 From: Spokanistan, Wa Posts: 9 I Drive: 95 Eclipse Gs-T My Project: Go faster |
"A" is good for going fast, but if you go "B" the car is just so much different. No wierd rattles or things like that. With the speed aside, do you want a newer car or and older car? I personally have something that has all kinds of little rattles and things and it makes me mad. I want something that is a very sound car and at least decently fast.
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| Newbie Joined: Jan 2007 From: Lynnwood WA Posts: 2 |
im gonna be around 12k into my corolla when im done and driving. but its a lot of work done by myself at the shop i work at. shooting for 500whp in a car that weighs around 2100lbs and is rwd. 10 second passes? freeway demon? thats just me tho, when im done playing with that im gonna get something a little more comfortable, something thats newer. and something that really plays in a persons decision, is this gonna be the only car your gonna be driving? Marcus | ||
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| Second Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Federal Way, WA Posts: 48 I Drive: BMW 323is | 69 Chevelle SS 427 | R1 | R6 |
If i did it all over again, i'd own the most underrated sleeper on the road. All for around 15K. 2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4.
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| Second Gear Joined: Dec 2006 From: Spokane, WA Posts: 40 I Drive: 2003 Cavalier, 2006 GSXR 1000 My Project: 42 willies flat fender |
Anyone who'd pay 20k for a fucking neon is an idiot....
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| Second Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Federal Way, WA Posts: 48 I Drive: BMW 323is | 69 Chevelle SS 427 | R1 | R6 |
You obviously fell a little too hard on those leaves by this statement. This car is faster than any other car i know under 30K. I dont know how this car passes emissions. Front mount intercooler, 2.4L turbo. 260hp, 250lbs of torque at 2200rpm. Slap a 20 dollar manual boost controller, turn it up 2 or 3 lbs (totally safe). and you're lookin at near 300hp. What do you drive? I guarantee this "neon" will make you cry.
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Spokane Posts: 128 I Drive: 96 240SX 90 300ZXTT My Project: 96 240SX with Full JIC FLT-A2 Susension, Sr20DET, 300ZX brake kit, etc | Quote:
I agree with Rev, if I was spending this money on a 2000 or newer car, it would be an SRT-4. I've seen these put the hurt down on many a bad boy car. | ||
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Methlehem Posts: 210 I Drive: You're mom and sister wild...at the same time My Project: Getting enough money for an M3 |
I don't think josh was talking about speed/dollar, but build quality and, for lack of a better term, class. Spending 15-20K on a car that rattles apart off the showroom floor (much less after I put my stupid sub in the trunk) is foolish. It will break and depreciate in value quite quickly, putting you very upside down on the car's value. I've personally already heard complaints of interior parts and other misc. stuff braking on SRT-4's. No complaints on motor though. To be fair, I've heard similar complaints (from mechanics) on current lotus', but I would still own a new lotus. The other reason I wouldn't spend 15-20K on a neon (even an SRT-4) is because it is, after all is said and done, FWD. Front wheel is fine for commuters, economy cars, winter cars, etc., but not for sports cars. Sorry, but in a FWD car, you roll onto the throttle mid turn, and it plows like a 5000lb SUV. That's not how a sports car is supposed to handle. | ||
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Spokane Posts: 128 I Drive: 96 240SX 90 300ZXTT My Project: 96 240SX with Full JIC FLT-A2 Susension, Sr20DET, 300ZX brake kit, etc |
Ted nobody is talking about road racing, the subject is bang for the buck. Speed wise is how I take this thread. What would you buy, year 2k or newer? for under 20K
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Methlehem Posts: 210 I Drive: You're mom and sister wild...at the same time My Project: Getting enough money for an M3 |
The original question was "older car with mods or newer car with no mods or smaller mods" Personally, 2000 or newer under 20K, I'd pick up a WRX. No, it's not as fast as a SRT-4, but it's a great car in all other cases. Now, take the 2000 or newer out, I would pick up a used fd with a relatively new motor rebuild, and a maintenance record that goes back to the original purchase. | ||
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Methlehem Posts: 210 I Drive: You're mom and sister wild...at the same time My Project: Getting enough money for an M3 |
yeah, I'm sure they would never catch on
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Moscow, Idaho Posts: 150 I Drive: 2006 Yamaha R6, 1991 nissan 180sx, 95 neon sport beater My Project: Pulled the sr20det for the second time and winter modding time | lol. he'd just take out his tuner nawz bottle and they'd never know. ;) | ||
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| Second Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Federal Way, WA Posts: 48 I Drive: BMW 323is | 69 Chevelle SS 427 | R1 | R6 | Quote:
I'd trade this T-FWD car for my RWD bimmer anyday. If you want a quiet interior, go buy a volvo lol. Right MM? | ||
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| Fifth Gear Joined: Dec 2006 From: Rathdrum Idaho Posts: 102 I Drive: 2003 Mustang 3.8l 5spd My Project: Mustang, Bandit | Quote:
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Moscow, Idaho Posts: 150 I Drive: 2006 Yamaha R6, 1991 nissan 180sx, 95 neon sport beater My Project: Pulled the sr20det for the second time and winter modding time |
They're pretty quick on a budget but it's still a neon.
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| Fourth Gear Joined: Dec 2006 From: Bothell Posts: 85 I Drive: 03 E46 |
I like how none of the Acuras are mentioned....just funny Best bang for the buck under $20k gotta be the GS-R a lot of 240s being mentioned?...they're weak all day long | ||
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| Fourth Gear Joined: Dec 2006 From: Bothell Posts: 85 I Drive: 03 E46 | Back when i had a 98 GSR, it probably had about 210HP or so...i smashed on a lot of cars Now that i have RSX, stock 210 HP, it will beat the 1.8T GTi or the VR6, Nissan Sentra se-r or just about any other car in its class | ||
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| Fourth Gear Joined: Dec 2006 From: Bothell Posts: 85 I Drive: 03 E46 |
Show some facts, pictures ...anything?
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Spokane Posts: 125 |
both pics are the same car. 880cc injectors at 42psi base fuel pressure is good for 680hp assuming a BSFC of 0.45 which is easy for a turbo car to achieve, add on that the fuel pressure raises 1psi per psi of boost and the car was running 30+ psi of boost + 100 shot of nitrous..... Ever broken the tires free on the freeway in 5th gear on dry pavement? Ever spun thru half track? I have T | ||
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Methlehem Posts: 210 I Drive: You're mom and sister wild...at the same time My Project: Getting enough money for an M3 | Autotrader has overpriced vehicles, look at DSM's on there, $14K for a 98 GSX. BS I tell you, BS. Anyone who bought a performance car at sticker price on autotrader got ripped. $19K OTD seems low on a SRT-4 too. And I have heard them, several times, with burp mufflers on them. http://www.srtforums.com/forums/arch.../t-216232.html A few used for over $19K, much less the new ones. Give it a couple more years, the SRT-4 will show it's true colors soon, especially in the interior. | ||
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| Top Gear Joined: Nov 2006 From: Methlehem Posts: 210 I Drive: You're mom and sister wild...at the same time My Project: Getting enough money for an M3 |
Oh, and T and Mookie are both all talk. GS-R's are slow for $20K, it won't compete with a E36 M3 stock, an fd, a mkIII Supra (mkIV too expensive), several others. DSM's are the best option under $10K. I think they are beasty, but bragging about a lack of traction is like bragging about chicken strips.
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| Fourth Gear Joined: Dec 2006 From: Bothell Posts: 85 I Drive: 03 E46 | Quote:
I dont need $20 $15 will do it, $10 for the car and $5 grand for the motor | ||